When walleyes are biting really light, I like to add a stinger hook to my Nuckle Ball Jig. Follow these three tips and I guarantee you will increase your hooking percentage.
1. Tie the stinger hook so that it is approximately the length of the minnow or plastic on your jig.
2. Place the stinger on the hook after you have hooked your minnow or plastic on the jig. This helps to keep the stinger hook off the bottom and free from debris. It also helps to keep your minnow on the jig longer.
3. Allow the stinger hook to swing freely behind the jig. Don’t stick the stinger hook into the minnow or plastic. This allows light hitting fish to suck in the stinger hook, even though they might not get the entire bait in their mouth.
Ryan Sagady Fin-tech Walleye Team
Title Shot Series Tips!
by Dave Wolak
1.) When punching grass with a Title SHot, I have had my greatest success with the 3/4 oz version. I try to contrast the skirt colors for the interior and exterior of the skirt. This creates a "flaring" effect of the skirt when it opens up. For instance, I will have my inside layer of the skirt be black and the outside layer green pumpkin.....this color contrast when paused or changed direction along with the speed of the fall of the 3/4 oz jig created a reaction strike....and no jig is better at punching grass than the Title-SHot.
2.) When rigging the Title SHot Shaky head with a worm, I always cut or bite a tiny section of the nose of the worm off. This makes the worm butt right up against the head and makes for a nice clean presentation.
3.) When swimming a Title SHot around vegetation or cover, I alter between the 1/4oz Skipping head and the 1/4 oz Original Title SHot depending on the trailer. If the bass are preferring a smaller profile and trailer, I use the Skipping head because it is offered in a smaller hook. If the bass are generally preferring a larger trailer, the Original Title-SHot if offered in a larger hook size and accommodates larger and more bulky trailers. Remember to keep your rod tip at 11 o'clock and try to bulge the surface when swimming a jig. The 1/4 oz and 3/16 oz sizes seem to work best for this.
Dave Wolak Fin-tech Pro Bass team and Elite Bass Series Angle
by Mike Huppert
Have you ever heard the statement, “ I had several hits but no fish” or “I had a fish on only to loose it”? The first thing to question is, are your hooks sharp? The reply usually is, “it’s a new lure or I’ve never used it”. New doesn’t guarantee sharp hooks! The plating process (applying a thin metal coating of gold, silver, zinc, etc.) is to blame many times for dull hooks on new lures, which can make a once sharp hook, dull. No lure should enter the water without first checking for hook sharpness. Sharp hooks are vital to any person’s fishing success. Check the hook sharpness by sticking the hook’s point into your thumbnail; if it’s sticky, the hook is sharp. Anytime you hang a lure up in any kind of structure, recheck for hook sharpness. No tackle box should be without a hook sharpener. Get into the habit of checking your hooks and you’ll put more fish in the boat.
The Color Confidence Factor
by Mike Huppert
The “confidence” is more important than the color itself. Let me explain; the more confident you are in a favorite color the longer it will stay on and the more attentive you will be. Don’t get me wrong, color can make a difference on any given day, but give the new color the same treatment as your favorite color and chances are you’ll see similar results.
The Bottom Connection (Rivers)
by Mike Huppert
Rivers are great fish producers, but if your lure is not presented in the fish zone you can end up fishless! The fish zone in a river is usually less than a foot off the bottom.
Jigs, Jigging Spoons and Three-Way Rigs:
The important factor here is to use enough weight to make bottom contact. Vertically jigging is an excellent river presentation and a great way to cut down on bottom snags. The concept here is to maintain your line as vertically as possible. Free spool enough line off until it stops, reel up the slack until its taunt, then lower the rod tip and the line should go limp which means your jig touch bottom and in the fish zone. Once you master this technique it should feel like you’re sticking a stick in the mud while keeping the line taunt. Boat control is another factor that comes into play. If you can’t maintain the boat speed the same as the current you will need to increase the lure weight until you make bottom contact.
When using a crankbait on a flat line, make sure it has the capability (depth range) to reach bottom. When trolling, thumb your line spool in a stop and go action, let enough line out until your rod starts to pump (bumping bottom), immediately lift it high and reel in some line, do this until you feel only the crankbait’s action. Watch your depth finder and make adjustments to the depth, a bump on the rod now and then is the signal your crankbait is in the fish zone.
Catch, Flash and Release
By Mike Huppert
Camera – The best catch and release device you can own.
A camera should be an essential item for your fishing outings, especially if you have children along. When you first start fishing with children, you’ll find they’ll want to keep everything they catch. Take a picture of the fish and let them release it themselves. Tell them the fish will grow and they’ll have a chance to catch them again. Once the child understands the concept they will start making the choice on their own. I found this picture concept works on adults as well.
Remember to bring the camera the next time out fishing and practice; Catch, Flash and Release.